The rhyolite outcropping that provides a magnificent view was used by many early settlers and students in surrounding one-room schools for picnics and various activities. Today it’s a protected State Natural Area that will soon be having some major timber work done to restore it to pre-European settlement conditions. (Photo by Kathleen McGwin)
Timber work to take place on Observatory Hill
By Kathleen McGwin
An important historical and geologic landmark in Marquette County will have some major timber work done by the Department of Natural Resources. Observatory Hill, a State Natural Area and favorite haunt of famed naturalist John Muir who grew up in Marquette County, is having work done to restore some of the acreage at the site to pre-European settler conditions. That means converting the site from a current oak forest condition, to more open oak woodland and oak barrens plant communities, according to Scott Sullivan, Forester for Green Lake and Marquette counties, and Randy Hoffmann, Conservation Biologist.
“We are currently in the preliminary stages of establishing a timber sale on the property. The property lines are being established and hopefully within the next month, we will begin marking the trees for the timber harvest,” said Sullivan through an email interview.”
Observatory Hill is the highest point in the county, rising 300 feet above the surrounding land. It is a rhyolite outcropping that was used by Native Americans for thousands of years, as evidenced by the thunderbird and other petroglyphs pecked into the rock probably 5,000 years ago. The petroglyphs were recognized by Dr. Jack Steinbring, an archeologist and rock art expert who lives in Ripon. Besides the petroglyphs, the smooth rock surface is marred with striations made by the glacier over 12,000 years ago.
For many years, a light was kept on the hill to help night time travelers and it was often used for church and school picnics.
Hoffmann and Sullivan said that the timber harvest that will take place on Observatory Hill “will fulfill this objective (of more open woodland) by removing a portion of the hardwoods that are present on the property and open up the tree canopy to allow more of the native pre-settlement plants to become re-established in the understory on the site. The understory plants will be maintained in the future through periodic controlled burning.”
Hoffmann clarified “pre-settlement” as “ecological conditions at statehood for which we assumed the responsibility to manage.” Native Americans often burned the land which kept thick forest growth in check and naturally occurring fires which are suppressed now, also kept the landscape much more open than it is today.
The change in habitat on this State Natural Area should entice certain bird and animal species. The DNR said, “Because the timber harvest will create more open grown conditions and the site will be maintained in the future through periodic prescribed controlled burning, native, pre-settlement plant and animal communities should occupy the site in the future. The habitat will change from being nearly the same as every woodlot in Marquette County to an area where species that do best in savanna conditions can thrive. The site will still have white-tailed deer, wild turkeys and squirrels. The post- harvest habitat should provide ideal conditions for many species that are not commonly found or are declining in the county such Red-headed Woodpecker, Whip-poor-will, Western Glass Lizard, and Eastern Red Bat.”
The DNR is marking the trees to be logged and hope to have the sale marketed by mid-June. They said that area loggers will have the opportunity to bid on this sale prior to the bid opening. The contract will probably be for two years because of restrictions on harvest due to oak wilt susceptibility and the terrain requiring dry or frozen conditions.
If you visit Observatory Hill and see the marked trees, those will be the trees that will remain after logging. The DNR said that the high risk, low vigor, less desirable trees will be removed in favor of large, healthy trees, preferably white oak, along with scattered black oak, hickory, and cherry. The trees that will be retained will act as a seed source for wildlife, provide den and nesting opportunities for wildlife, and also provide a seed source for future seedlings that will replace these large, mature trees in the future. Cedars at the top of the hill will also be thinned in the future.
“The goal of the timber harvest is to retain approximately 20 to 30% of the overstory canopy on the eastern and southern facing slopes, and retain approximately 50% of the overstory canopy on the north and west facing slopes. The southern facing slopes are drier sites and the understory of the forest was historically burned more frequently than northern facing slopes. We are trying to imitate these conditions through the timber harvest,” said Hoffman.
About 125 acres will be logged, but the main area will be the oak forest on the hillsides of the hill as well as the thinning of a three acre red pine plantation on the north side of the property.
The DNR was also asked about a new trail being built on Observatory Hill and they replied, “Discussion did occur regarding the improvement of the existing trail and possible creation of a new trail on the property. Most likely, this will not occur until after the timber harvest is completed. After the timber sale is complete and the Department will be applying for a grant to develop a loop trail to feature the site’s natural values as well as providing excellent hill top viewing opportunities”
Many groups in Marquette County use or point to Observatory Hill as a significant feature in the county. The John Muir Legacy Group, Muirland Bird Club, Prairie Enthusiasts, the Marquette Chapter of the Ice Age Trail and the Marquette County Historical Society all have a great interest in Observatory Hill State Natural Area. This March, the American Society of Environmental History has planned a field trip to John Muir sites in Marquette County which includes Observatory Hill. The visitors will be led by Laurel Bennett, Karen Wollenburg, Tiffany Lodholz, Kathleen McGwin and Daryl Christensen.
Observatory Hill was featured in the Montello Historic Preservation Society’s Year of John Muir and Unearthed: Evidence of the first people of Marquette County, an exhibit that brought artifacts from the Milwaukee Public Museum and included a trip to Observatory Hill to view the petroglyph there as well as the glacial striation.
Observatory Hill is open for hiking. Parking is on Gillette Avenue off of 13th Road in the Town of Buffalo.
